This course further develops creative draping techniques in apparel design. Builds upon the skills learned in Draping Ⅰ, Students learn advanced draping techniques. Introduction to cowl bodice, sarong skirt, bias cut dress and jacket styles that include mounted and semi-mounted sleeve, various collar and pocket styles are included. Students also learn to connect the skills of draping and pattern making and use these skills creatively. Course utilizes strong sewing skills.
本课程是服装立体造型设计1的进阶课程,是学生掌握立裁基本技能之后,学习较复杂款式服装的立裁方法与技能。课程主要内容包括垂褶衣身、纱笼裙、斜裁连衣裙以及包含装袖/半连袖/领型/口袋等在内的茄克(大衣)款式的变化设计与立裁。学生还将学习如何将立裁和平面技巧相结合,并创造性地运用这些技能。课程要求学生具备较强的缝纫技巧。
1. Politic-Ideological Objectives 思政目标
Course Objective 1: Strengthen students' ideals and beliefs, stimulate their patriotic feelings, enhance social responsibility.
Course Objective 2: Enable students to have high moral and professional ethics, cultivate students with the spirit of craftsmanship, unity and cooperation.
Course Objective 3: Improve students' aesthetic and humanistic qualities, consciously inherit and carry forward the excellent traditional Chinese culture, and enhance cultural confidence.
2. Knowledge Objectives 知识目标
Course Objective 4: Master the theory of advanced draping skills, methods and techniques.
Course Objective5: Understand the application of draping skills in clothing and the relationship between draping and feature of body shape;
3. Capability Objectives 能力目标
Course Objective 6: Master the draping techniques and methods to manipulate the muslin according to the style.
Course Objective 7: Grasp the key techniques of different styles of garments.
Course Objective 8: Develop the patterns from muslin pieces of draping to patterns, and make the samples, finish the forms of Cutter Must.
4. Quality Objectives 素质目标
Course Objective 9: Obtain the essence of draping techniques and develop the patterns for garments industry production.
Course Objective 10: Train the students with professional knowledge and make the students have the ability to adapt to the different situation in the future.
思政目标(Politic-Ideological Objectives)
课程目标1:加强学生的理想信念,激发他们的爱国情怀,提升社会责任感。
课程目标2:使学生能够拥有高尚的道德和职业操守,培养学生具备工匠精神、团结合作精神。
课程目标3:提高学生的审美和人文素养,自觉传承和弘扬中华优秀传统文化,增强文化自信。
知识目标(Knowledge Objectives)
课程目标4:掌握高级立裁技巧、方法和工艺的理论知识。
课程目标5:了解立裁技巧在服装中的应用以及立裁与体型特征之间的关系;
能力目标(Capability Objectives)
课程目标6:能够独立完成不同款式服装的立裁技巧和方法。
课程目标7:能够分析及运用不同款式服装的关键立裁技术。
课程目标8:能够将立裁的白坯布样板转化成纸样,并制作样品,并完成裁剪单编写。
素质目标(Quality Objectives)
课程目标9:领悟立裁技术的精髓,并为服装工业生产开发纸样。
课程目标10:用专业知识培养学生,使学生具备适应社会与产业产业未来发展的能力。
在课程评价考核上采用线上和线下融合、过程性评价与终结性评价相结合的多元化课程评价机制。课程总分100分,线上评价占30分,线下共计70分;平时成绩占60分、期末成绩40分,各部分内容占比如下表所示。
线上评价包括观看视频、参与讨论、单元测试、单元作业、期末考试;线下评价包括单元实践作业、课堂讨论与测试、课程综合设计实践作业。
评价指标 | 描述 | 评价权重 | ||
线上 学习 | 观看视频 | 视频观看时长/视频总时长*单项满分 | 5% |
30% |
参与讨论 | 有效参与讨论数/10*单项满分 | 5% | ||
单元测验 | 单元测验总得分/单元测验总分*单项满分 | 5% | ||
单元作业 | 单元作业总得分/单元作业总分*单项满分 | 5% | ||
期末考试 | 期末考试总得分/期末考试总分*单项满分 | 10% | ||
线下 学习
| 单元作业 | 单元作业总得分/单元作业总分*单项满分 | 35% |
70% |
课堂讨论、测试 | 慕课堂讨论、测试总得分 | 5% | ||
大作业 | 大作业得分*单项满分 | 30% | ||
(1)Foundation of draping 服装立体造型设计1
(2)Sewing Techniques for Women's wear 女装工艺
1. Recommended Textbook
[1] Hilde Jaffe, Nurie Relis:《Draping for Fashion Design》(5th Edition),Prentice Hall,2011.
[2]吴巧英、郭建南主编:《服装立体裁剪》(第一版),高等教育出版社,2015年出版。
2. Reference Book
[1] Connie Amaden-Crawford:《The Art of Fashion Draping》(4th Edition),Prentice Hall,2012.
[2] Karolyn Kiisel:《Draping: the Complete Course》(1st Edition),Laurence King Publishing,2013.
[3]陈红霞:《美国立体裁剪与打板实例》(第一版),化学工业出版社,2017年出版。
3. Internet Resource
[1] https://www.icourse163.org/course/ZSTU-1205717806?tid=1460621442
[2] https://next-studio.xuetangx.com/pro/editcoursemanage/dashboard/3346
[3]https://www.xuetangx.com/course/zstu13051000937intl/5516285
[4]https://www.xuetangx.com/course/zstu13051003785intl/5929629
Q : Which fabric should we prepare to drape the soft garment? How many meters do we need to prepare?
A : Soft and lightweight fabrics like chiffon, satin are recommeded. Lightweight but not too light to be sheer. For project 1, prepare 1.5 meter wide fabric; prepare 2.5 meter wide fabric for project 2.
You can use same or different fabric for two projects.
Q : What should we prepare for jacket projects?
A : Preparation of materials for jackets
(1)two pairs of shoulder pad, one general shoulder pad, one raglan sleeve shoulder pad
(2)One meter of fusible interlining, (nonwoven fusible interlining is not allowed)
(3)5 meteres heavyweight firmly woven muslin for draping jackets and coats
(4)Several pieces of white thin pattern paper
(5)Basic straight sleeve used in draping 1 course